The "How To"
of
Filter
Maintenance

Introduction

Explanation of Terms

Correct Installation and Maintenance

When the Filters need Changing

Measuring Pressure Drop

Selecting Replacement Filters

How to Change Filters

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Introduction
Page 1

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O.K....so filters can make maintenance work easier.  But how about the time it takes to care for them?  And - let's face it - changing filters is not exactly the cleanest job you do.

That may be, but when you count up the hours (or days!) it would take to remove from offices and work areas all of the dust and dirt a filter traps during its lifetime, you'll get another view.  Sure it takes a few minutes now and then to check the filters, and they do have to be changed perhaps once a year.  Considering how they're on the job working for you up to 24-hours a day, month-after-month, that's a modest investment in time you have to make.

How can you make sure your filters are doing the best possible job?  That's really what this booklet is all about...to help you make sure your filters are installed right...working right...to show you when they need changing and how to go about it...and to help you select replacement filters which will do the best job for you.  After all, filters are your helpmates.


Definitions
Page 2

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Practically everything a maintenance person services has its own language...words and phrases which describe how a product works or performs.  Filters are no exception.  Here's an explanation of some of the terms which are a part of filter talk:

ASHRAE Efficiency
The measure of the ability of a filter to remove the staining portion of dust in the air.

Downstream
Air leaving side of a filter bank.

Dry Media Filter
A filter which needs no adhesive to hold collected dust.

Extended Surface Filter
Filter in which filtering media has greater area than the face of the filter.  For example, pleated and "bag" filters.

Initial Resistance
The resistance to air traveling thru a filter when the filter is new and clean.

Media
The material which filters the dust.

Panel Filter
A filter in which media is laid flat (not pleated).

Prefilter
A filter which traps larger dust particles before they get to the high efficiency filters.   Placed in front (upstream) of high efficiency filters.

Pressure Drop
Resistance which a filter gives to the air passing thru it.

Unload
To blow off dust which has been collected.

Upstream
Air entering side of a filter.


How to
Tell If Your
Filters are
Correctly
Installed

Page 3

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Filters can do the best job for you only when they are correctly installed.  Next time you check your filters, ask yourself these questions:

Is the bank of filter frames rigid and well reinforced?  Maybe it needs further support to prevent collapse as the filters load up.

Can you see light anywhere between filter frames, or between the bank of frames and the duct walls?  Caulk these cracks to prevent leaking of unfiltered air. 

Are the filters installed correctly in the frames?   If not, set them into the frame so air will not by-pass.

Are the filter fasteners in place and correctly installed?  This is especially important if the filters are serviced from the downstream (air leaving) side.

Are your bag filters fully open?  If you use extended surface filters, make sure the bags are not pinched and are fully open.

Is the media damaged?  If you spot any rips or holes, replace the damaged filter.


How to
Tell when
the Filters
Need Changing

Page 4

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Media Type Filters
As dust and dirt collect on the media of a filter, its resistance to air flow gradually increases, building to a point where the filters should be changed.  This "final pressure drop" to which the filter can operate is determined by the type of filter, and the characteristics of the air handling system.

Panel Filters (prefilters)
Some panel filters have a tendency to "unload", or shed some of the collected dust, after a period of use.  If you can determine in advance when this condition is likely to occur by checking the manufacturer's literature, you won't have to wait until a filter unloads before changing it.

Extended Surface (bag) Filters
These filters will operate until they are completely plugged without unloading, and actually their filtration efficiency increases as more and more dust is collected.   However, their resistance also increases - which eventually reduces air flow.   The people who designed the air handling system probably have worked out its "final pressure drop", which tells you when it is desirable to change filters.   If you can't locate this information, follow recommendations of the filter manufacturer.


How to
Measure
Pressure
Drop

Page 5

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From time-to-time you will want to measure the pressure drop across the filters to determine the point at which they should be changed.

The simplest measuring device (an inclined gauge) costs less than $25.00, including all installation hardware and instructions.  It's really quite easy to install, and operate.

Keep in mind, though, that some oil might evaporate from the gauge over a period of time.  For this reason, the gauge should be "zeroed" every three months or so while the system is off, adding more oil if necessary.  If the fan can't be turned off, it still may be possible to disconnect the tubing without losing oil from the gauge, providing the system static pressure is not too high.

Because of their relatively short service life, panel filters should have their pressure drop measured weekly.  For other filter types, once a month will tell you the rate at which it is loading - and thus enable you to anticipate when a filter change is in order.


How to
Select Your
Replacement
Filters

Page 6

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Because you'll be living with your replacement filters for the next year or so, you'll want to make sure the ones you pick are right for your job.  Here are some things you should look for:

ASHRAE efficiency:  Your assurance that a precise industry-wide testing standard is used to determine the dust-removing capability of the filter.  If a manufacturer certifies the ASHRAE efficiency of a filter (or better still, if he will offer the certified test data of a qualified independent test laboratory), you should have confidence that the filters will perform as stated.

Confirmation of claimed initial resistance: You'll want to make sure the initial resistance of the filters will be as stated in the manufacturer's literature.  Again, the manufacturer might be able to offer certified test data of a qualified independent test laboratory, or if you wish, you can arrange for initial resistance tests by someone you select.

Filter life "guarantees":  Carefully consider all of the conditions which accompany any "blanket guarantee" of filter life.   Usually they are accompanied by a stipulation that operating conditions must not change (a condition you may not always be able to control), or other limiting measures.

Confirmation of amount of media:  Ask the manufacturer for a sample of the filter you are considering, and measure its media area.  Remember, though, that two filters having the same amount of media will only have the same life if they also have the same initial resistance.  Filters with a higher initial resistance to air flow start with a handicap they can never overcome.

Keep in mind, too, you're not necessarily "boxed in" with the filters you've been using.  Most filter frames will accept cartridges of other manufacturers, if you decide a change is worthwhile.  You'll want to use the filters that do the best job for you.  They probably won't be the least expensive filters you can buy.  But they could save you money over the long haul.


How to
Change

Filters
Page 7

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1. Remove the old filters and set them to one side in the duct or filter housing.

2. Vacuum, clean or brush the holding frames to remove settled dust.

3. Inspect the holding frame gaskets, and replace any which are damaged.

4. Remove the new filters from their cartons and install according to manufacturer's instructions.  It pays to read the instructions.

5. Check the filter to make sure the media is not caught, or damaged.  If a filter was damaged during shipment, call the delivering carrier and file your claim for loss.  If you are using "bag" filters, check to make sure the pleats are free to open fully.

6. Check all fasteners to make sure they are holding filters in place securely.

7.  Move the dirty filters to the cartons which held the new ones.  Vacuum the duct floor, close the duct door, and zero the manometer.

Relax...
Now it's the filter's turn to work for you!